Next Up: New Orleans

Last week I received my belated birthday present from Pavel: He's arranged for me to come along with him to New Orleans for a week. We'll have a weekend together, then he'll be at a conference for the week, giving me lots of time to explore. We were there nearly ten years ago, and I'm excited to be going back.

But there's not a lot of time to get ready--we leave next Friday. I'm starting to go through the guidebooks, and choosing books to read now and on the trip (my daughter's favorite, Satchmo: My Life in New Orleans, is on the top of the pile).

What can you tell me about New Orleans? What places should I be sure to visit, books to read (novels set in New Orleans now or long ago), movies to see (ditto), favorite restaurants, bookstores, junk stores, bars, alleys, walks?

I look forward to any and all pointers...